Kebabs, Fragrant Biryani and So Much More: A Historic Indian City Gains Recognition on UNESCO's Culinary List.
Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.